Caramel Brioche Buns (or ruminations on Gâche Vendéenne)

Our inspiration for today’s piece is a trip down the east coast of France, down to the idillic town, of La Rochelle, merrily making our way through French cities and townsteads.

It killed us.

By the time we reached our final destination, Bordeaux, we could barely explore the nearest supremarche, let alone the city center! There’s a romance to travelling though, isn’t there. Despite the fact that the reality of the situation usually involves waiting for, or on or by a bus (if breaking the bank for alternative transportation). Then, having arrived at your destination, more sitting, on the bed, too tired to move, from all that sitting.

But it cold just be me.

Whatever your travel attitudes, you can’t argue that you need a break, on your break, every now and again. This, for us, was La Rochelle.

 

Île de Ré, our île de calme

Having visited two college friends in three towns over four days, we needed a holiday, a proper one. Fortunately for us, we had La Rochelle as the next stop on our travels, and with the weather brightening, there was no better place to stop for a few days rest. Of course, what can’t be missing from a idyllic French town, is an idyllic French market.

Just a stone’s throw from our hotel, was the open air market for La Rochelle, which happened to be open every day we were there somehow. Cheeses, meats, fruit and of course, bread, all saliva inducing treats that our empty pockets couldn’t afford us. Well, not exactly empty, but not quite full enough for us to be dining on Jonchée and Pineau des Charentes all day and night.

However, one thing that the budget did afford me, was bread.

Every morning I’d wake up happy in our little broom cupboard room on top of the stairs. Throwing on a pair of my special summer shorts, I’d hop down the three flights of stairs, past the nice receptionist (“bonjour!”) and out into the street below us. Warmed by the promising morning sunshine, I’d then make a 90° turn to the left and take the 163 steps necessary to get the the bakery stall.

Bonjour!

In front of me, spanned pure inspiration, a sea of baked creativity. Miches, Epis, Pain de Campagne everything you’d want and more. But with my stomach rumbling and my self control back in Wales, one thing always managed to draw me in each morning. Brioche rolls, the size of your fist, filled to the brim with caramel, identified only be a label reading ‘Gache’. It’s a wonder I tried one at all really, but dare I did and dare I should have (ask the guy what it was? Are you insane!).

Having fallen for these clouds of unexplained caramel, there was only one thing on my mind coming home. Recreating these buns. The Gache, whatever that meant, would be reborn.

 

Back in Wales…

After heavy Googling of such mud-clear terms as “caramel filled brioche La Rochelle” and “bread traditional La Rochelle”, I discovered that the buns of my dreams were in fact a variation on Gâche Vendéenne. Similar to brioche, however the Gâche Vendéenne also contains cream, as well as butter and eggs. Maybe I shouldn’t make these a breakfast staple. Strange then that Gâche de Vendée translates literally as ‘Vendee waste‘. Clearly Vendée (the region just outside La Rochelle) was slightly better off in the past than good old Bethesda if this was waste to them!

Whatever the history, I can’t thank those wasteful bakers enough for creating Gâche Vendéenne. For allowing me, centuries later, to enjoy a sweet roll the size of my face, full of caramel.

For breakfast.

The future is indeed sweet. But there was still one thing Google couldn’t tell me.

How on Earth did they get the caramel in there?

Here then, is my attempt to answer this riddle. Enclosing solid toffee in brioche dough in an attempt to bake a little La Rochelle, here in Wales.

 

How to fill brioche with caramel

Here’s the video showing you how I filled my brioche with caramel.

I used the same toffee recipe as I used for the toffee apple cruffins, and the recipe for the brioche used is also available on the site, explaining exactly how to prepare brioche dough.

Apologies for sending you all over for recipes. But it’s hard keeping up with these write ups and I’m knackered OK! Love you!

 

Measurments

This will be enough for 6 rolls.

 

Cut and weight  your brioche dough into 120g pieces

  • 720g brioche dough

 

Lluwchiwch arwyneb top ac esmwyth y darnau brioche efo blawd. Trowch nhw ben i lawr a gwasgwch ddarn toffi i mewn i’r wyneb gwaelod (wan ar i fynnu)

  • 6 darn toffi (tua maint Thorntons Originals)

 

Enclose toffee pieces in the brioche, stretching the dough over the toffees, pinching the dough to seal them [0:43 – 1:00]

 

Roll the dough parcels into balls [1:00 – 1:08]

 

Place rolls on a baking tray lined with baking parchment, cover with cling film and let them prove for 2-3 hours

 

Once rolls are proofed, bake at 180°C with steam (boiling water in tray on the oven floor) (18 mins)

 

Let rolls cool on wire rack

If all’s gone well, there shouldn’t be any leaky caramel.

 

More to read

As you already know, there are plenty of recipes on the website, like the brioche and cruffin recipes. But there’s also an article on the way where I experiment with caramel for the perfect toffees, so follow on Instagram and Facebook to stay posted.